After first visiting Sighisoara, one of the oldest and most beautiful cities of Romania, keeping alive it's medieval charm and elegance, you begin to understand why this place was selected to be European cultural capital in 2007. It all makes sense, when discovering step by step the wonderfully preserved architectural creations, centuries old, the narrow and twisting streets, the old houses, the museums, the nature, the atmosphere. Sighisoara is a special place for all, and many keep returning here time and time again.
Among the many structures and especially among the towers - each one bearing the name of a trade or guild - there is a particular one, more than impressive : the Clock Tower or the Gate Tower, a great example of mechanical brilliance and architectural mastership. The clock with small figures, present here, is the only one of this type in Romania and one of the few in the whole world. With a height of over 64 meters, the Clock Tower is by all means a sight to behold, yet most of the visitors have eyes for the huge clock, on the fourth floor (the fifth and final one is actually an open balcony). The roof, with a pyramid shape, has two small domes. Over this domes there is a small golden globe, and over this a rooster made out of metal, which turns on the wind.
A special one, this Clock Tower. Since 1899, this old, medieval structure was turned into a special and impressive museum, called "Old Sighisoara", ran at first by Iosif Bacon. Over the three floors, visitors have the chance of discovering, through several rare and well kept and presented exhibits, the history, customs, values and legends of the old city. The first major exhibit is a big model of the town, as it was in the 18th century, a model made by one Julius Miselbacher. The rest of the objects, documents and artworks tell the story of the city, from the early times, when Romans conquered the mighty and fearless locals, to the founding and functioning of the powerfull guilds, that practically kept the city going, to the events of the 15th and 16th century, when Vlad Tepes was in Sighisoara. We end this part with the presentation of the Unity achieved by Mihai Viteazul in 1600, and although short-lived, you understand that this moment was crucial in the history of this place. Going up, on the third floor of the tower, we take our first steps in the world of the 17th and 18th centuries, represented especially by a rather large and varied collection of furniture pieces, a fascinating presentation of various styles and trends, from Renaissance to Beidermaier.
Another major part of this unusual and special museum is the pharmacy. Yes, it is the section with all the inventory of an old pharmacy, of the 17th century and even older, showing how evolved this trade was, but also how much superstition was still used.
On the fourth floor, we finally reach the Holy Grail of the tower, the very mechanism of the clock, a labyrinth of springs, small and large wheels, tubes and countless pieces of metal, a small universe that only the best of best could ever works out. Yet, this clock - OK, well kept - still keeps on going on and on, counting the seconds, minutes and hours, for some centuries. The clock has two hour plates, 2.4 meters in diameter, and near these in the wall there are several niches, very large, where the figurines symbolizing the days of the week can be found. For this is the main charm of this huge clock - the figurines.
We don't know exactly when the clock and it's figurines were put in the tower, the only document being a small written note from 1648, which says that the "hourglass of the clock was renewed by the master clockmaker Johannes Kirschel". It is very possible that before the fire of 1676 there were other figures, destroyed in the flames. The statuettes that we see today, 0.80 meters tall, made out of lime wood, were installed in 1677, and are seven in numbers, one for each day of the week.
Monday is the day of the Godess of the Moon, and it's figurine is dressed in light blue, carrying a now and arrow, while Tuesday is the day of Mars, the symbol of war, destruction and death, portrayed as a strong man, with a red shirt and blue coat, with a large spear in his hands, being also a symbol of Iron. Wednesday is represented by Hermes, the emissary of the gods, protector of commerce, but also the symbol of the alchemical mercury (the Sun) and silver (the Moon). Thursday - Donnerstag - was the day of the father of the Greek gods, Jupiter, but also of the Wottan in the norselands. The allpowerful figure is here presented as an impressive figurine, wearing a large, golden crown and wearing a red shirt - symbol of the power and quick anger - and a cape made out of fur. His foot is put upon the Earth globe, and he holds in his hands the most powerful weapons : thunder and lightning. Friday could not find another godess than Venus, the perfect choice, protector and symbol of love and beauty, a beatiful young woman that admires herself in a small mirror, held by a little cupidon. Saturday, the day of Saturn, is a bearded figurine, older, dressed in blue and red, it's right leg being black.
Photo : telegraph.co.uk
2007-12-10
